We meet Mattea for a coffee and deliver her laptop. Caitās work is officially done!
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Head back to the Airbnb to pack up and walk to the bus stop. Clambering on the bus with the big bags isnāt easy, with a push from a follow passenger to get up the stairs I make it to the top deck.
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We opted to take a bus to Matosinhos to skip out the city bustle and begin by the coast. It was a great call.
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There was a bit of confusion with payments when we got on the bus, but the driver was in a good mood and told us heād take us all the way to Santiago and we could pay when we got there.
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The bus ended at Matosinhos and we went to pay our fare. The driver gave us great instructions on how to cross the bridge and some architecture to look out for us. He then blessed us, shook our hands and told us to leave something for him at Santiago. When he asked if we could pay he said ālisten to what Iām sayingā implying our pilgrimage and tribute to him at the end would be payment enough. An amazing omen to start.
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We see the first Camino sign. Which turn out to be abundant with no chance of getting lost. Weāre doing the coastal route and as long as long as the ocean is on your left; youāre on the right track.
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On the boardwalk we find our first stamp for our Pilgrim passports. The man is incredibly friendly and excited, yet deeply perturbed the by weight of my bag (rightly so). He attempts to pick it up with a look, and then - not finding the English words - says that Iām crazy.
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Itās easy walking: flat board walks along the coastal vegetation. Beautiful, expansive. We receive a few more Bom Caminos.
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Stop for lunch and a coffee. I discover the Portuguese version of Savanna: unreal, alcoholic Appletizer. Mattea and Luke who are running the first four days come past and join.
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Later we stop for a swim. A dangerous shore break about shoulder high with rocks hiding below. I get the hair wet and avoid a trip ending indecent.
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A massive cloud bank forms on the horizon over the ocean. They come across like an enormous range of snowy mountains, ominous. Thunder or fireworks in the distance.
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EDIT: we found this online, turns out that it wasnāt normal! Validation!
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Back on the path the cloud bank seems to break and let out a last sign - which turns out to be an enormous momentary wind that sends umbrellas flying.
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- Talk about experience with pain - creature of comfort
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Thirteen Bom Caminos later and the end is in sight. Iām very tired now and in bed - so just going to give some bullet points that we might come back to later.
- what is that weird sandwich thing called?
- Parade at night
- Luke and Tae carry our bags
- Jesus house
- Bom Caminos: 13 ; Boa Tarde: infinity ; Bom Viagem: 1. People are so sweet to you when you have a shell strapped to your backpack!
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Caitās Strava Entry
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Camino Day 1 (Part 1)
Daily update format inspired by Millie Timms š
Day 1 of Camino PortuguĆŖs da Costa. Started out with the loveliest bus driver refusing to let us pay and instead sending us off to Santiago with a handshake and a blessing. A truly special start š
Day 1 consisted of the following:
walking, bag adjusting, beer drinking, laughing with Tae and Luke, more walking, more bag adjusting, lots of commentary on the excellence of the boardwalks, pain check ins, snacks, beach rests, a crazy cloud bank, excitement, exhaustion, a beautiful sunset, more beer drinking and laughing, a late night parade, and a blissful sleep in an old coupleās backyard cottage, complete with old school wacky decor and Jesus parafinalia.
We received 13 āBom Caminhosā from strangers along the way. Every one made us smile, no matter how sore or uncomfortable we were šš
For a longer form write up, and other Portugal trip musings, check out https://leothesen.com/camino-ish š