We are around spring tides so high tide is just before sunrise - this means that a sleep in is in order. Coffee and a walk down to the point to check the waves; which are looking pretty good! I make Julian and I wait at least ten minutes to see what a full cycle of sets look like. It seems like it’s running and fun, we go to suit up.
Jumping into the water tells a different story. We are swept down to the river before even making it out to the backline. The swell seems to be too South and there are many rogue wide waves breaking, making duck diving a constant feature. The rip is enormous so I bodysurf in and run around - jumping off the rocks at the keyhole. I manage to get one or two and dolphins engulf Dom and I while showing us how to really ride the waves.
I find myself walking back up the beach and Maximilian joins to see where the keyhole is. Ramco and Julian soon catch up. I tell them to wait and see how I do it - standing on the rocks I watch for a break in the sets but each time it doesn’t really calm down enough to make me feel like I’m not risking something. Finally I take a chance and begin battling the rip out. I get sucked to the left very quickly and can see rocks just underneath me. After barely making it out I see that the three of them on the rocks have made the responsible decision of doing another beach paddle out.
We head back and I tackle the neglected task of cleaning my car, the crates and setting up camp. It feels good to be more organised again, Ralph has been sidelined for quite a few weeks now. Lunch is leftover curry (of which there are at least two more meals left) and it’s easily better than it was last night.
Julian and I play some music and discuss how much we miss listening to full length albums. I ascend up to the beautiful sun room and get stuck into the mammoth task of writing Bovineiterology.
I get stuck into the sun room and do some writing. The whole run is beginning to transition from less of a burry euphoric sensation into a more solid memory of a beautiful experience.
Julian and I go out to fly my kite (Marcel) that I have yet to unleash into the sky this trip. We come back to and Julie (I’ve renamed Julian) makes me a truly delicious pasta. Filen makes a pretty incredible roti wrap and really enjoys the Marcel B. set that I request Julian to play again.
I talk him through the idea that I’ve got brewing with Fred and he meets it with a great reception and probes with some great questions. We come up to the common room and I begin testing out the watercolours.