The alarm wakes me at 6:30. I snooze.
I know that Leon is silently cursing me and Nik for not being on the road already, maximizing daytime at supers - but this for me is a holiday. I’ve been there, driven to surf at 4am to ensure that I arrive there at first light. This time around it feels so easy, listen to your body and take it as it comes.
I hope to buy a cooler box today and have a surf!
The only significant things about Jeffrey’s bay are the wave and the 5 way stop street
- I buy some colt vanilla tobacco because it’s a sabbatical. And it’s physically impossible to consume more than one in one sitting, so it will hopefully moderate the smoking.
- the surf is cooking
- Watched some incredible surfing. Truly fantastic. Got really silly with nik and Leon.
- nik tried to get me to drink a corona with him and then immediately suggests we go surf.
- Had the most beautiful surf at pumping jbay under a pastel sunset.
We paddled out at about 4pm, with trepidation. After watching people get minced by the rocks, broken boards and leashes and general carnage all day we were excited to see if we’d succumb to a similar fate. Yet skill (mostly luck) was on our side and we got out with dry hair.
We surfed just above tubes and it was cooking. Easily double overhead, running all the way to point on a good one. I surfed the Custard Queen and just went fast and straight. I pulled into a couple of barrels but didn’t make any. I’m considering putting twin keels into the board to see how it goes?
We watched the last woman’s quarter final and Tatiana fucking smacked the lip a couple of meter away which was eventful. The last heat of the day ended and we paddled up to supers against the merciless river of a wash going down the point.
The sunset was a soft pastel pallet that would make a trendy Cape Town fella blush. The waves would make that same person put their expensive longboard back on the roof of their Jimny and go to Harvest get a cortado.
- Big psych rock party
- watched the surf under the full moon
- sleeping in the car in the carpark. Proper teenage days.
- 11:11pm is the time. I’m in my sleeping bag in the back of the car. In the carpark for the parkoff event. Each hiccup rocks the car suspension. Feeling like a teenage kid I rock my way off to bed.