This is the first morning in Mdumbi when I’m awake before my alarm. I remember having quite a vivid and intense dream and was wide awake at 6:15am. I excitedly make coffee and breakfast as Bryan, Doro, Wayne, Chris and Eli come into the kitchen - each with equal energy.
I eat my oats while packing my hiking bag. Following a list that I had put together in about 20 seconds last night and didn’t double check - too self assured when it comes to packing for a hike. I bring my things down to one of the rondavels and Eli helps me strap my surfboard to my backpack using tie downs. It’s remarkably secure.
I sneak in a quick check of the waves at the Mdumbi point and am happy to see that it’s got a bit smaller than yesterday - but with potentially better shape. We begin the walk talking excitedly amongst ourselves while strolling down the beach towards the Mdumbi river.
Luckily the tide is already quite low and river comes up to our waist at most. And then it’s just blissful Transkei coastline all the way down to Lwandile. There is one dog that keeps its distance, while making its territory known. I’m encouraged to see that the Transkei dogs are a bit more tentative when it comes to a group of people - which bodes well for our run next month.
There is a whale what feels like every kilometre up the coast. Goats, sheep and cows roam the shores. Aloes dot the hills and organic but chaotic Milkwood forests buffer the sand and grass. The approach to Lwandile is in true “Endless Summer” fashion; walking over a large hill and as you summit it the wave comes into view.
It’s cooking. Breaking for quite a few hundred meters down the beautiful point. The faces are open and clean, the pace of the wave slow but punchy. I rush down the hill along a path that two children fishing warn me against. I choose to ignore their advice and come out unscathed.
We cannot get our wetsuits on fast enough. And the paddle out in the empty lineup seems to take forever. My first few waves were insignificant due to little mistakes that my excitement caused. Padding around furiously for 10 minutes tires me out enough to start thinking clearly again.
I get my first set wave that runs all the way through to the beach break. The wind is just a faint breath, but I know that it’s going to go onshore at some point today. This knowledge made every paddle back up the point a bit of a race against the wind - never knowing if this would be your last clean wave. With just three of us in the water there are a painful amount of unridden waves going by. Safe to say that we had an exhausting hour and a half of some of the most fun waves I’ve had in years.
A memorable wave was one where I really just read it so well. Never slowing down too much and transitioning from one turn to another with ease. After riding the wave for ages I did a floater on the closeout section and kicked out with the thought that I may have surfed that wave as best as I could have ever possibly done so. It’s easy to compare oneself with the professionals and surfing you see online, but in the Transkei with two friends in some pretty amazing conditions it allows you to break through the self judgement and give yourself a well deserved pat on the back.
After almost two hours I find myself at the bottom of the point unable to bring myself to paddle back up it again, I use the light onshore wind as the excuse. My exhausted body takes itself back to our little Milkwood tree cave to devour pasta and a curry wrap. About half an hour before, whilst paddling back up the point I suddenly realised that despite my self proclaimed hiking packing experience I had forgotten my Aeropress - I marvel at how there is some background process in my brain checking for kuk that I may have forgotten; how odd. Coffee is brewed cowboy style in a pot without issue.
The kids who were fishing come and hang out with us - we share some grapefruit. One of them turns out to be Nas that I met the week before. They prop up a big rock on one of the boulders next to the shore and start throwing small rocks at it. I have been waiting for my next opportunity to throw rocks with someone again and I immediately get involved. After throwing smaller rocks and hitting the target a few times, only for the target rock not to fall over - we all decide that the rocks that we’re throwing are too small. Massive rocks start exploding and chaos reigns.
Me and Chris almost go back in for a second session when we see a flurry of chest high waves peel through. We remain on the fence for about 15 minutes before admitting to ourselves that we’re too tired. Wayne and Eli have been angels and filmed the session - which is just a cherry on top. Doro and Eli both find incredible shells on the beach.
We pack up and slowly start wondering back home. Feeling relaxed, lazy, full, happy and a little exhausted we make jokes and point out whales all the way back home. A very happy little dog decides to join us and refuses to walk behind anyone, always leading.
The tide is high now, and the ocean is pouring into the narrow Mdumbi river mouth. Chris gives it a try further away from the mouth and he’s swimming. I give it a try closer to the mouth of the river and it’s at shoulder level at its deepest. I come back and attempt it with my pack and surfboard - successfully!
As we’re about to pull into the Mdumbi Backpackers Bryan points out the almost setting sun and opts for a beer up in the view point to watch the sun set; a fantastic idea. A cheers is had to celebrate a fantastic day. We put ourself to bed with Amagwenya burgers for dinner after the perfect last day in Mdumbi.
