We wake to the golden light pouring into our room. Beautiful rights peel down the point. Toni comes to collect money for our stay - how news has spread that we’re sleeping in the bungalow has spread; I don’t know. But we manage to get a 5L water out of it too.
Coffee on a grassy hill is obligatory. We watch the sun rise with our minds occupied by mindsurfing and watching the dolphins greet the day.
Dogs are a huge theme in the Transkei. Damo is a border collie. Fred a Great Dane. And I a golden retriever. We start the run. Pull into a spaza shop for a lunch bar and coke. We take a few wrong turns. “Fastpacking - where the fuck are we?” Fred.
We yo-yo around the three tourists who are hiking with a guide. After running away from them twice and both times losing the path, only for them to come past every hour or so.
After having to hike up a big hill through thick grass we get to the top and stop to call Mdumbi backpackers to check in and order three dinners. Damo goes for a swim which turns out to be a huge mistake on the chafe department.
Several kilometers later; the sun is baking and wind blowing us dry. We don’t have a huge amount of water but stop for a mama alles Central African peanut stew.
My left ITB has been tickling a little bit. It’s definitely aggravated by the slanting beach. It takes more concentration to run now, but I am enjoying the slight challenge of staying mindful about my running form.
We find a shady spot in the bushes with mottled sunshine. Eyes close slightly and we doze off. Someone comes walking past on his way to the Kraal backpackers - which is what we have done today!
After lunch Damo and I regain some energy. His chafe is hurting and he’s struggling along with me. Fred is thriving up ahead of with a spring in his step.
The midday heat subsided and the energy from lunch arrives. We pass Lwandile with a golden light in the sky. The waves are messy but good. Damo and I share a smoke as we gear up for the last 7km.
My left ITB is sore on the steep descents. So I begin to just power hike the beautiful cow cut contours that take us to Mdumbi.
The river crossing is pleasant and easy on the low tide. Siya is there to greet me when we walk into Mdumbi. A Swiss couple share the delicious rice, mince and veggies and we talk about her time as a doctor in Cape Town.
Lisa is volunteering here along with Filen. Both of them offer interesting conversations in their own flavour. Filen talks about his time growing up on the Michaelhouse campus as a child of a teacher there. Lisa asks interesting questions and listens with presence. She had met my friend Niklas when he was here as well as knowing Gareth and Gemma.
Fred buys us two dumpies each. We receive six quarts. The beer calms my body and I relax. I’m in bed now. “It smells like deep heat and farts; reminds me of hockey tour” - Damo.