Introduction
Jordan and I were planning a trip to Europe. I had my sights set on London to end off the sabbatical. We were toying with some other countries in Europe to visit prior to the United Kingdom, but the wonderful administrative task of applying for UK visas meant that we didn’t have the time (or money) to get a Schengen visa.
Throughout my road trip in South Africa I was bumping into Europeans who were doing overland trips across Africa. A common sentiment amongst them was how incredible Malawi had been. One couple said that they had spent three months there yet still could have spent another year. I floated this past Jordan and was happy to hear that she was absolutely on the same page - it was set; we were going to Malawi.
It was a beautiful - but tough - journey.
Metta
The rough plan was to rent a motorcycle in Lilongwe and ride north towards a place called The Mushroom Farm which had glowing reviews. Jordan had created a Google Maps list of places marked out along the lake for the journey.
We arrived in Malawi early in the morning after a long flight via Nairobi that left late at night and didn’t warrant much sleep. After collecting the bike, Jordan and I sat looking at it, eating some nuts and pondering what we should name it.
The bike was a Yamaha DT175. A small and reliable two stroke machine that has been subjected to extreme conditions in Africa since the early eighties. Contrary to the size of the bike, it managed to carry both myself, Jordan and our two bags with relative ease; the only compromise being that 60km/h was our top speed.
There is a six speed gearbox and a large amount of torque delivered from the motor between three and six thousand rpm. I would be lying if I said that I like the sound of a two stroke engine (think: chainsaw), but over after the two weeks with this bike I think that I’ve learned to appreciate certain resonant tones in its whining drone for which I might use a word such as “pleasant”. It could quite easily be Stockholm syndrome though.
We went through several iterations of names and then Jordan suggested “Metta”. Metta translates to benevolence or loving-kindness and is a form of Buddhist meditation. We both thought that it was appropriate for a Malawian bike as it was indicative of the way that the people treat one another here.
The next day we left Lilongwe in the direction of Monkey Bay, about three hours away. We were driving down the highway (for context, Malawi’s infrastructure is not much to speak of; so this was a single lane highway with a yellow line at the best of times) and unfortunately had a minor accident when our handlebar was clipped and we found ourselves sliding on the tar. We were fine, minus some skin. And it proved to be quite a pivotal moment in the trip. Read about that day below.
Metta still lived up to her name regardless of allowing us to become more intimately acquainted with the Malawian tar. The accident immediately scrapped all plans of a long ride up north and we ended up having a very restful time around the Monkey Bay and the Cape Maclear area.
Lake Malawi
We often caught ourselves referring to the lake as an “ocean”. The limitless expanse of water shares so many similarities to its saline counterpart. Yet the lack of waves and salt make the experience of swimming in the lake such a unique experience.
I’ve spent my whole life in the ocean and feel incredibly comfortable in it. Swimming in chlorine swimming pools makes my hair go green and I tend to avoid them where possible. So I was quite ill prepared for my lack of buoyancy in the crystal clear fresh waters of Lake Malawi.
On my first few journeys into the lake I floated with only my eyes above the water, treading water didn’t have the same efficacy as in the sea. This initial drawback led to some great advances in swimming underwater as I found out on a snorkelling trip in Cape Maclear.
The lake was a highlight of our trip to Malawi. It offered everything from a cathartic thing to stare at to a substitute for showering. We walked along its banks, swam through it and admired all the creatures that it gave life to.
People
Malawi’s motto is “the warm heart of Africa” and how true it is. Everyone that we met was open and engaging; genuinely interested in what we had to say. Even in the tourist ridden Cape Maclear where so many of the locals rely on the foreigners as a source of income; they approached us with curios or tours and were not put off by the fact that we didn’t buy anything. Often continuing the conversation afterwards just to delve deeper into our lives. Always leaving with a smile.
One conversation topic that seemed to resurface from time to time was that of South Africa. Mostly in the context of opportunity and danger. Many Malawians have family and friends working in South Africa and it seemed that there was quite a polarised view on South Africa.
About half of the people we spoke to thought of South Africa as a land of wonderful opportunity and economic prosperity. Somewhere that they could go and bring upon a better lives for their family and themselves. It’s hard to say, but it did seem that most of these people were from families living in challenging conditions.
There were some others who were quick to ask our stance on the xenophobic violence in South Africa. They had stories of violence and murder. Many of these people did not sing the praises of Malawi either. And sadly enough they were mostly people working in the tourist sector - effected by the extreme wealth of western world in contrast with rural Malawi.
Then there were people who were utterly at peace. They exuded a calm from their entire body that put us at ease. When we entered the topics of living in Malawi, South Africa, work and wealth their answers were poignantly simple variations of “I have everything I need right here”.
There were nights waking around dark streets with absolutely no worry about safety. It was a weight off our shoulders that Jordan and I spoke about often. Testimony to the loving kindness of the people of Malawi.
Travel journals
Here are all the travel journal entries from my time in Malawi if you care to dive deeper into the day to day happenings.
Arrive in Malawi
Land in Lilongwe, collect Metta and eat Chambo (fish) for the first time.
Off to the lake
A motorcycle accident, and our first view of the magnificent lake from an incredibly beautiful lodge on the beach.
Mufasa lodge
A trip to the village, watercolours and a kayak trip into the lake.
To Cape Maclear
A beautiful drive through the national park, delicious fish and a gorgeous sunset.
A day of activities
A boat trip, new friends, snorkelling, a great ride on Metta and an unexpected party.
A day spent within 20m of the lake
Laptops, budgets, Beyonce vs JLO, backgammon and community.
Vomitology
A new field of medical research, unexpected lemon and ice, and relaxation.
Health is restored
A drive, kombucha, writing and puppies.
A windy lake
Mostly just deckchairs.
Sailing and crocodiles
It’s kind of in the name; we went sailing and that night someone shot a crocodile - it’s probably worth a read.
The pass
A drive up a beautiful mountain pass and a pottery studio.
Back to Lilongwe
Backgammon, a broken clutch cable and beautiful day in Lilongwe with our new friend Jeremy.
End
Our trip to Malawi was amazing. The motorcycle accident and bouts of sickness make it analogous to a long distance endurance activity; periods of glory made better by extremely difficult times.
The people of Malawi, the lake and the new friends we made will forever be remembered.
